THE NEIGHBORHOOD

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Towns

(<10 min from Les Vaches)

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Cotignac

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Classified among The Most Beautiful Villages of France, Cotignac is also the go-to village from Les Vaches for restaurants, bars and cafés. Shaded by ancient plane trees, Cotignac’s main square – the Cours Gambetta – has a range of terraced establishments and is a perfect place to enjoy the relaxed rhythms of Provencal, village life.  The town hosts morning and evening markets (see Markets section below), and among other summertime events, a popular, outdoor cinema festival.  See below for significant historic sights of the village.

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Restaurants & Bars, some recommendations:

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• Le Bistro Cotignac (lebistrotcotignac.fr): Cours Gambetta.  The quality here is very good and there is space for large parties both indoors and out, though during high season it is recommended to reserve in advance.

• Le Table de Marie Alice: Cours Gambetta. Good, quality dining.  For indoor seating during the high season, call in advance for the main dining room, as it is to be preferred to the mezzanine.

• Le Temps de Pose: Place de Marie, due north of Cours Gambetta. This outdoor restaurant provides just a few tables, so is suitable only for small parties.  A tranquil and pretty space to dine.

• Jardin Secret (www.loucalen.com/bar_restauration/jardin-secret): Awarded a Michelin green star in 2023, this is the restaurant of the Lou Calen hotel. It is located in a secret garden  as might come as no surprise. Entry is via the hotel. Reservations will likely be required.

• Le Tuf (latufcraftbeer.com): Located just south of Cours Gambetta.  This bar specializes in locally brewed beer. It has a polished ground floor space, a gritty, graffiti lounge upstairs, and a charming set of outdoor garden terraces.

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Historical Sights

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The Citadel​

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​​Constructed during the Dark Ages, the citadel is at first glance hardly visible among the high cliffs which surmount Cotignac.  Much like a cameleon, initially only the eye of the citadel is visible amongst the stone.  As the details emerge, one is astounded at humankind's ingenuity.

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Open to the public, from its parapets one has a wonderful view over the tiled roofs of the medieval village and to the Massif des Maures, 30km to the south as the crow flies.  It was in the latter that the Saracens built their strongholds during the Dark Ages and from which they raided inland, harvesting slaves amongst the locals.
 

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Sanctuaire Notre Dame des Graces

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Cotignac is an important village for many of the Catholic faith.  It is exclusively here, as accepted by the Church, that all members of the Holy Family have made private apparition to the faithful.

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The first such apparition was that of the Virgin Mary, the baby Jesus on her hip, in 1519.  Having appeared to a young man gathering wood in the forest, she requested that the villagers build her a chapel in which those in need might pray for her grace and favor.  

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The most famous such prayers were the novenas of 1637 on behalf of the Queen of France, who had failed to produced a living heir after 23 years of marriage.  Christened by his parents Louis Dieudonné (Louis the God-given), the future Louis XIV was born nine months thereafter.  Indeed, the sanctuary's statue of the Virgin Mary and Child received in thankfulness the humble devotions of Louis XIV and his mother, Anne of Austria, in 1660.

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Sanctuaire Saint Joseph du Bessillon

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This church is built at the location of the second private apparition by a member of the Holy Family to a villager.  Here it was Joseph, father to Jesus, who appeared to a young shepherd suffering of thirst in the forest.  Joseph bade the young man lift a large boulder to reveal a hidden spring.  The young man, not recognizing the old man for Saint Joseph, nevertheless did as he was told.  To the young man's surprise the boulder displaced easily and a spring was indeed liberated.  Today the waters of the spring are sought by pilgrims for their powers of healing. ​​

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Tourist Info: www.la-provence-verte.net/ot_cotignac

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Barjols

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Barjols is the go-to town from Les Vaches for grocery shopping and gasoline. Though less renowned than its neighbors, Cotignac and Sillans-la-Cascade, the drive to Barjol is very pretty and the town center has its unique charms.

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• The Intermarché at Barjols is the nearest large grocery store to Les Vaches and also offers a decently-priced gas station.

• Gervasoni et Fils: This bakery, at the second roundabout on the way to the Intermarché, is often frequented by the local school children.  Which is quite endearing.  The “Gros Campagne” is a beautiful bread and, unlike the traditional French baguette, can last for days.

• Le Domaine les Roseaux is located just beyond the roundabout at the Intermarché, on the left. They sell not only the wines of the domaine Les Roseaux but also many other products by local producers.

• Le Potager de Monique sells local produce in a rustic, roadside vault along the Allée Anatole France.

• Antiquités Brocantes Barjols (www.antiquitesbrocantebarjols.com) is a large antique shop for those in search of Provencale antiques, or simply curious to browse.  Take the left off the hairpin as one first descends into Barjols.

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Old Tanneries

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Some of the old tanneries of Barjols, dating from as early as the XVII century, have been converted into art spaces. Check the events calendar on the tourist info website, there may be worthwhile exhibits during your stay.

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Tourist Info: www.la-provence-verte.net/ot_barjols

Discover Barjols:  https://barjols.fr/decouvrir

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Sillans la Cascade

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The beautiful waterfall of Sillans la Cascade attracts travelers from across France, but few venture down to the shaded, emerald pools below. These pools might remind one of the rich, exotic hues of the finest Gauguin paintings. During the high season it is best to arrive early and lunch early. And don’t forget bathing suits!

La Gaudinette and Restaurant Les Pins are both good dining.

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Village Info: www.sillans-la-cascade.fr

Tourist Info: www.tourisme.dracenie.com/nos-23-villages/sillans-la-cascade

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Fox Amphoux

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This perched, medieval village just north of Les Vaches offers a panoramic view of the countryside from  beside the church tower.  The 12th century church and the old nettle tree at its walls, planted in 1550, make quite a pairing.

Boulangerie Fabre is a rustic, roadside bakery below the perched village and worth a visit.

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Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours

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A short walk down from the village, through the forest, is this grotto dedicated to the Virgin Mary.  The peaceful, Marian shrine houses a gilded statue of the Virgin and Child dating from the 17th century.

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Tourist Info: www.la-provence-verte.net/ot_foxamphoux

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Markets & Farms

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Farmers’ Markets (before Noon):

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Tuesday: Cotignac

Sunday: Barjols

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Artisan Night Markets (18:00-Midnight):

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Monday: Sillans-La-Cascade

Wednesday: Cotignac

Friday: Barjols

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Farms:

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Les Papillons Verts (18:00 – 20:00):

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This is the pretty farm of Nora and Laurent Lassemblee.

During summer months they sell their produce, olive oils, jams etc. on site between 6 and 8pm without prior arrangements.

Though not far of a drive, the last 500m is a narrow dirt road not to be driven in a hurry.

Route by car from Les Vaches: maps.app.goo.gl/9HtvFCj6Diffp8R98

Website: lespapillonsverts.com

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La Ferme du Bessillon:

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Stephanie and Julien produce and sell a range of fine dairy products. One might come upon Stephanie grazing her Provençal goats on the local herbs of the neighborhood.  And this explains why her goat cheeses are so flavorful!

Their farm is also a great place to bring children, as Stephanie and Julien have a wide range of animals (and in springtime, many newborns!): goats, ducks, cows, border collies, pigs, etc.

It is best to call ahead:

Tel: 06 09 89 60 08

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Route from Les Vaches: maps.app.goo.gl/KFwjysmckhNZBnKF8

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Local Produce:

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Le Potager de Monique (Barjols)

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4 Allée Anatole France, Barjols

https://maps.app.goo.gl/8uTp9NVRKeCXcAiMA

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Biking & Hiking

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The Trans-Europe Bike Path

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Just north of Les Vaches passes the EuroVelo 8, a bike path that traverses Europe from Greece to Portugal. The smooth, gravel path westward winds through the vineyards and forests of the northern vale of the Bessillon: https://maps.app.goo.gl/HZ7e5kTj4NNkxRrv5

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There are a number of vintners along this path with beautiful estates, some with dedicated shops, others requiring advance bookings for tastings. See next section.

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Hiking along the Bessillon

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There is a scenic and leisurely trail along the southern flank of the Gros Bessillon which begins at the lower parking lots of the Saint Joseph monastery: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Hr7pnVGFwBTCZS1T6. For those of great stamina, this trail may be taken around the entire Gros Bessillon.

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To the Summit of the Gros Bessillon

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One can hike or bike directly from Domaine Les Vaches to the summit of the Gros Bessillon and there are a number of ascents. The most gentle is a wide, well-groomed gravel road as indicated on the following map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5Nqyp8wGnf5MdCUo6. One can drive 2 minutes to the base of the gravel road by exiting left out of Les Vaches and then taking the first right.

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Strolling and Mountain-Biking the northern flank

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The northern flank of the Gros Bessillon is criss-crossed with paths for wandering and mountain-biking. The following topographic map has an example itinerary which begins across the road from Domaine Les Vaches: https://maps.app.goo.gl/x5Qe7xwEccXZhn4u7

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Vintners

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Château de la Prégentière: (lapregentiere.fr)

Tel: 04 94 77 10 64

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Château Duvivier: (chateau-duvivier.com)

Tel: +41 71 227 63 00

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Château la Calisse: (chateau-la-calisse.fr)

Shop Hours: Daily 8:30-13:00 pm / 14:00-18:00

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Domaine Saint Ferréol: (saintferreol.com)

Shop Hours: Mon.-Sat. 9:30-12:30 / 15:00-19:00